WATER CHEMISTRY– Water balance and maintaining correct Ph and Chlorine residuals.
FILTRATION – Back washing regularly and keeping sand clean.
CIRCULATION – Ensuring that the system runs sufficiently and that there are no leaks in the system that may affect suction or pump operation. |
STABILIZER - 70 - 90ppm
FREE CHLORINE - 2 – 3ppm
TOTAL CHLORINE - ALWAYS THE SAME AS FREE CHLORINE
PH (ACID) - 7.4 - 7.6ppm
TOTAL ALKALINITY - 80 – 120pmm
CALCIUM - 250ppm |
The red tests you can test at home, the others should only tested in pool shops. We recommend that you take a sample to a pool shop once a month in summer to be tested.
Chlorine Test – when testing chlorine and the reading is low e.g. Less than 2ppm, you need to add chlorine (hth) or turn up the chlorinator to a higher setting.
Salt testing is also done about twice a year.
PH Testing – when testing and the reading is below 7.4 e.g. 6.8ppm you need to add Sodium Bicarbonate or better see a pool shop specialist. When testing and the readings are above 7.8ppm you need to add acid (Hydrochloric acid). Add in doses of 500ml at a time; always dilute acid with 5 litres of water before adding. Test again after 6 hours and repeat if necessary.
Filtration: Once a week you need to do a Backwash and a Rinse. When turning the selector valve (multi-port-valve) always turn clock ways and make sure motor is turned off. First do a backwash for approx. 2 min (or until sight glass is clear). Then turn handle to rinse for approx. 30 sec or until sight glass is clear. Sand needs to be replaced every 2-3 years depending on the surround of the pool.
Circulation: The system is sized and designed to circulate all the water in the pool once every 12 hours, therefore you need to run the system 12 hours per day. Should air bubble appear at the aimflo (where the water blows back into the pool) you should contact your local pool shop for advise as this means that the system is not pumping to its full potential and may cause circulation problems resulting in dull and ever green water.
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